It has been a while since I got a chance to sit, gather my thoughts, and put them in writing. There had been a good number of tasks to be completed, places to go/things to do before the summer is done... and decisions to be made. Many reasons can be attributed to the hiatus - but no reason is worthy enough to be labeled sufficient.
Hail Waves: The Concept of being Maytagged
My last trip to Hawaii is partly responsible for my almost impossible (view point at this time at least - hoping it is temporary) ideal of learning how to surf (Maytag Log #1. See Roam Chronicles). I have been going to several New England locations for the ideal waves, practicing and signing up for lessons that hopefully will land me some sort of board-balancing, and wave selecting skill. The past few weekends had been rough as I tread the disorganized swells of New Hampshire and Wellfleet. Blame it on hurricane season? Unlike the smooth, albeit towering waves of the Pacific Islands - New England beaches are known to have waves that while rarely surpassing chest-high heights, are rough to learn on.
The Wall, NH: I underestimated the Granite State. When I first heard of a surfing in NH, I turned a skeptical ear. Much of what I remember with Hampton Beach was the boardwalk, and the gaudy shops lined with the quintessential tourist shirts and blown-up beach toys. My directions stated that I should drive further through Route 27. There it was - what I believe was dubbed The Wall. I was impressed as the waves were pretty big - at that time, hurricane Irene was heading towards the eastern coast. My "instructor" was a 16 year-old who didn't teach me much except that "it's all about balance." I know that everything in life is about balance, kid. Are you familiar with a checkbook? He took me right into a crowded area where a surfing competition was taking place. On several occasions when I was able to stand up, but not retain my balance - I faced my wipeout fate turned to him as I emerged - only to see him chatting with someone about his afternoon schedule and the [insert expletive here] surfer who was not wearing a leash. I got a bruise and an aching arm from a board that hit me on my right side. Maytag Log #2: Not coming back anytime soon unless the wind direction and wave conditions are the most optimal.
Newport, RI: Attempted twice, but ended up just making them into beach days. Primary reason was the water condition at that time: Waves were crimson red due to high concentration of algae. Did I mention that there were volleyball (men's... sure, and women's) tournaments on both occasions? Maytag Log #3: Newport, RI has many other reasons for me to visit - not necessarily the waves.
Wellfleet, MA: Emily decided to take on surfing for the first time last weekend. Made a day out of it: Brunch, ice cream, driving by the coast and just catching up over the past few weeks worth of activities until we got through the Sagamore. We got to the beach off Marconi and relaxed for a bit - the fog was coming in thick. We could barely see several yards off the shore but the waves were visible enough to know that they were just coming in, one after the other, and from several different directions. (Imagine a herringbone pattern instead of the usual linear wave succession). Ryan (surf teacher) gave us our boards and we headed down the steep dune (which we had to later trek back up to). "The waves look like they're fun," says Ryan as he surveyed the water, to which I say, "Fun, meaning what?" To this he just looked at me and shot a sinister smile. I knew it was going to be a rough day. Maytag Log #4: We spent most of our time trying to get to our point, fighting the waves. Good instruction, however on the surfing basics, etiquette, and technique. I was sore for several days and after this, I'll think twice before I put my poor clothes on the heavy wash cycle. Holy seaweed - there was the entire vegetation of the Atlantic as I peeled off my wetsuit.
Because we thrive on suffering, we went back to the same location the week after. Much calmer waters, smaller and kinder waves this time around. Maytag Log #5: I finally understand what to look for in terms of ideal wind and wave situations, helpful techniques to balance, right of way in catching a wave etc. Caught some waves (albeit still awkwardly) and was reminded of why I wanted to get into surfing to begin with.
I do regret having picked this up rather late in this summer season and in life. Be warned about those Blue Crush girls, for they make it look like this is easy. There are several ways to learn to surf, I suppose - but after the basics, it is all about repetition, discipline, and the acceptance that (at least in the beginning) there will be pain.
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